Insects and other foods the trout may be eating:
1.    Blue-winged Olives
2.    Cinnamon Sedges (Caddisflies) (Abrams Creek)
3.    Green Sedges (Caddisflies)
4.    Little Sister Caddisflies (Abrams Creek)
5.    Eastern Pale Evening Duns
6.    Sulphurs
7.    Little Yellow Stoneflies -Yellow Sallies
8.    Slate Drakes
9.    Light Cahills
10.  Little Green Stoneflies
11.  Golden Stoneflies
12.  Cream Cahills
13.  Ants
14.  Inchworms
15.  Beetles
16.  Grasshoppers
17.  Hellgrammite
18.  Cranefly
19.  Sculpin, baitfish and small crayfish (Imitate with streamers)

Cream Cahills - Nymphs
If you didn't read the introduction part to Cream Cahills two days ago, please go
back and do that before continuing.

All the Cream Cahill nymphs, regardless of species, are flat clinger nymphs that
vary very little in appearance. Like all clinger nymphs, these move from the fast
water they live in to nearby, slower water when the nymph's wing pads become
pronounced and they are getting ready to hatch. The big difference in the Cream
Cahill nymphs and other clinger nymph hatches like the closely related March
Browns or Light Cahills, is that the Cream Cahill hatches are not as regular or as
intense. They are found in isolated areas of the streams they exist in.

The good thing about the Cream Cahills hatch is the fact it usually takes place when
few other hatches are occurring. This means the trout are usually focusing on them.
You need to be prepared in the event you find them hatching.

When you anticipate a hatch is about to begin, or if you have determined it has
already started, you may want to try imitating the nymphs migrating from their
normal fast water habitat to slower, more moderately flowing water. This migration or
movement is usually only a few feet or less. They will move to the closest, slow to
moderate moving water.

If the hatch has already begun you would want to fish an imitation of the nymph in
the mornings and early afternoons up until the time the nymphs begin to emerge.
Fish your fly heavily weighted, right on the bottom at the edges or seams of the fast
moving riffles and runs. We usually place split shot about six to eight inches above
the nymph. You want to keep adding weight until you can get the nymph down
quickly and keep in on the bottom.

Your basic approach should be focused on bringing the nymph out of the fast water
into the areas where the water is moving slower. This could be pockets along the
outside edge of a run. The current seams created by pockets or slicks behind
bounders is another place you would want to concentrate on.

Short, up-stream, or up and across presentations work best for this. You can also
use the typical "high-stick" method of nymphing but I feel like short cast works
better. One reason is that the water is usually low when the Cream Cahills hatch
and you would spook a lot of trout using the "high-stick" method.

Strike indicators can be used but I feel like they hurt the presentation by keeping
the fly off of the bottom. If you are lazy and don't like concentrating on your fly line,
you may be better off using a strike indicator. Use a relatively short leader of about
seven and a half feet. If you make short cast, not over twenty feet long, and keep a
relatively tight line you can either feel the takes or see the end of your fly line stop
or move unnaturally in the drift.
"Perfect Fly" Cream Cahill Nymph